K3MRI

Reminder to think about the After Action Report during your deployment. This is the link to the form. It will be active between this Sunday at 10AM and Saturday night at 2023-11-04 23:59 - it closes automatically then. The link: https://hamvolunteers.com/mcm2023aar

Thanks Russell. Also got your support ticket.

Hi Carlos. Can you message Bruce K7BC and I, K3MRI using the messages on this site. Here is the link: https://hamcommunity.com/messenger/ Using that messenger, tell us what is wrong on your profile and we will fix it for you.

Completely agree hence where Ham Community is going... New directions! Stay tuned.

You'll be fine. I've done it. Just lock it up and make sure it's not where there will be too many spectators.

This topic should have gone into the main forums but, you know what, amateur radio operators hacking into a NASA satellite is history. So here it is.

Hi Andy. I speak from experience, not scientifically; not in this case anyway. Before the antenna, let's talk permissions. You may, or may not, want to alert someone 'official' that you are doing this. You're in the heart of D.C.... Second, I would do it as a two- or three-person operation. You need help with antennas, watching over gear, etc. Now the antenna. I have been successful at NVIS with - I am being serious - multiple metallic coat hangers hooked into one another, sitting 6-inches off the ground. The problem is not getting the signal out, it'll be your SWR. If you can overcome it and get a signal out without frying your TXC, you'll get out; obviously, subject to propagation. Will it be perfect, nope, but you will succeed in activating the site for certain. One more thought, is there any rule against using a roof? If you can use a roof, ask the Ford Theatre... Great idea. Depending when you do it, happy to help.

Anthony, I'm assuming from the image that it is not water-resistant? If so, you might want to fashion an emergency cover for it. Obviously, if you do make one, remember the condensation! Otherwise, as always, what an impressively clean job!!!

Hi Lind. Not what we're saying, not me anyways. But what they should do is reflect society at its broadest if they want to attract more people into the fold. Let us not be fooled, the ARRL is not a charity. They are in it, hopefully for our common interest, but also to stay afloat and pay for their secretariat. As such, they need the growth, and our profile is a limited pool. So it's not, in my opinion, a matter of who shows up, but rather the image they choose to project. Having personally been the object of discrimination, I choose to believe that we need to make an effort to be inclusive, without excluding anyone. I'm just saying that if they want my daughter to join, so to speak, they need to make her feel welcome, and right now, our hobby does not exude that atmosphere of inclusiveness. But hey, I'm often wrong so maybe I am this time also. 😇 **edit** One more thing, this is definitely not just a 'white' vs. 'nonwhite' discussion, it's about all diversity. Why not more women in the shot? Youth? Are there no young volunteers? That's more my point.

Okay, ignorance time... mine that is. What are Lids? I know they mean hats, and yes I could look this up, and likely will, but I do like to (occasionally) reveal my more unknowledgeable side. Go easy on me 😳

Anthony, before you actually buy it, do some more research on any RFI issues. They say that they have mostly worked them out, but you need to be sure. Another option that does not create RFI is the West Mountain Radio solution here: https://www.westmountainradio.com/product_info.php?products_id=epic-pwrgate This is the one I have in the car (full disclosure, I have the Victron in my portable battery pack). If I get a chance, I'll take some photos. Actually, wait, I do have a picture handy. **edit** I lied 😎 I have a picture of the battery pack, it's there on the floor in front of me, but the Victron is buried beneath the postcards, oh well 🤣

Sad I won't get to hear it, but super happy you're doing this!!

Audrey, welcome to Ham Community. We're not a large community but we're here to help each other out as much as possible. If you need anything special, don't hesitate to reach out. And thank you for signing up as a volunteer!! 73 Jim

Hi John, welcome aboard and thanks so much for volunteering for the Marine Corps Marathon! Let's hope this is a good vintage. 73 Jim | K3MRI PS. If you run into any issues, please reach out!!

I will look at the radio specs later in the day but for now, with my first coffee in hand, let me say that that is one good looking little radio. Simple but quite appealing!

Not only do I wish you luck but also... will you be taping the talk? Please say yes and that we can post it. Also, let me know if there is anything I can do. Getting women, lonely seniors, minorities, the disabled, veterans, etc. into the fold is a core function I would love to develop. In an era of social isolation, amateur radio acts as a reliable bridge to the outside. BREAK A LEG!!! 🤗🫶

Hi Joe and welcome to Ham Community. We're not a large community but we're here to help each other out as much as possible. If you need anything special, don't hesitate to reach out. 73 Jim

Hi Antony. Lots to unpack here. First the panel you bought. If P=VI, then the panel you bought is 240 watts. That's a big panel! That's the type of panel you would see on a house roof. (but as we will see below, your sticker tells another story). Next the controller. A 20A/24V will definitely handle your panel. The panel is not fixed at 12V. The VMPP rating is the Voltage and Maximum Power Point which means that your panel, in full, vertical sunlight, should deliver 17.3 V. Note that panels will often deliver even slightly higher peaks. Hence the need for a controller. Now let's talk about the controller (and the panel's sticker). The sticker says 20W; that's actually a small panel. The IMPP and VMPP confirm this. If you multiply the two, so 1.20A X 17.3V, you get 20.76W. So in actual fact, the 20A, 12V rating you got when you googled it, does not match the sticker. As for your 21V measurement, like I said, the VMPP of 17.3V can sometimes be exceeded. In short, the controller you will need is not that big. It needs to handle ±2A and 18V; those are fairly cheap and standard. What you will have to decide is whether you want a PWM or MPPT controller. Now my advice. Get a bigger controller because you may end up getting more panels. Given the choice, get an MPPT controller but check out their RFI. Many solar controllers cause RFI, bad sometimes... What follows is a more detailed technical description of what you've asked (sorry you asked?? 😎) NOMINAL POWER: This is also known as the power rating of the solar panel. In your case, it's 20W, meaning the panel should generate 20 watts of power under standard testing conditions. POWER OUTPUT TOLERANCE: This shows the variance in power that the panel could produce. In your case, it's -0/+3%, which means the panel could produce up to 3% more power than its nominal rating but will not produce less. LSC: This stands for Short Circuit Current. It's the maximum current that can flow through the solar panel when there is a short circuit. Your panel's LSC is 1.30A. VOC: This stands for Open Circuit Voltage. It's the maximum possible voltage across the solar panel when no current is flowing through it. Your panel's VOC is 21.7 volts. IMPP: This stands for Current at Maximum Power Point. It's the current at which the solar panel outputs the most power. Your panel's IMPP is 1.20A. VMPP: This stands for Voltage at Maximum Power Point. It's the voltage at which the solar panel outputs the most power. Your panel's VMPP is 17.3 volts. MAXIMUM SYSTEM VOLTAGE: This indicates the maximum voltage that can be safely handled by the solar panel's internal components. Your panel's maximum system voltage is 600 volts. MAXIMUM SERIES FUSE RATING: This is the maximum current that can pass through a fuse in the system without blowing. It's a safety feature to protect the system from excessive current. Your panel's maximum series fuse rating is 15 amps. NORMAL OPERATING CELL TEMP: This is the average temperature that the solar cells will operate at under normal conditions. Your panel's normal operating cell temperature is 45 degrees Celsius, plus or minus a certain amount that isn't specified here. Please note that all these values are typically measured under standard test conditions (STC) which include a solar irradiance of 1000 W/m², cell temperature of 25 °C, and air mass 1.5 spectrum. Real-world conditions can cause the performance of a solar panel to differ from its rated specifications. Now let's look at the differences between PWC and MPPT. Solar controllers, also known as solar charge controllers, are essential components in most solar power systems. They regulate the voltage and current coming from the solar panels going to the battery, preventing overcharging and ensuring the longevity and efficiency of the system. There are two main types of solar charge controllers: Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) controllers and Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) controllers. Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) Controllers: PWM controllers are relatively simple and cost-effective. They match the solar panel voltage to the battery voltage by slowly reducing the amount of power applied to the batteries as they approach full charge. This is accomplished by "pulsing" the full charge on and off very rapidly. The downside of PWM controllers is that they do not optimize the power output from the solar panels as conditions change. Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) Controllers: MPPT controllers are more advanced and efficient. They continually adjust the input voltage from the solar panels to find the maximum power point and convert the excess voltage into more current. This optimizes the performance of the solar array and can significantly improve the efficiency of the system, especially in colder temperatures. MPPT controllers are generally more expensive than PWM controllers but can provide up to 30% more power from the same solar panels under certain conditions. It's worth noting that the best type of solar charge controller for a particular system depends on the specifics of the system, including the power of the solar array, the type of battery, and the climate and environment where the system is installed. But like I said Anthony, check the RFI!!!! My final, final recommendation: I would suggest using an MPPT type controller for amateur radio applications due to their improved efficiency and advanced technology. However, I'll note that product availability and models may have changed since I bought my last controller, so I can't provide a specific product that's currently available. That said, one brand known for their high-quality solar charge controllers is Victron Energy. They manufacture MPPT charge controllers which are reputed to have low radio frequency interference (RFI). You might look at a model like the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 which can handle up to 75 volts and 15 amps, that way you can grow with it. This model has Bluetooth built in for monitoring and configuration, and Victron has a strong reputation for quality. I'm not sure of the price difference, but you could also save a little and get a 75/10. Here is the link to both: https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/smartsolar-mppt-75-10-75-15-100-15-100-20 Sorry for the lengthy reply to such a simple question. I was in the mood.... 😁 Last point. Considering you bought the panel at a super cheap price and the controller is overkill, maybe look on Ebay or get something much smaller just to get your feet wet!!

Hi Phil. Welcome aboard! Also, thanks for registering as a Ham Volunteer. Quick question, was your intent to sign up for the Marine Corps Marathon? If so, don't forget to 'Apply' for an assignment here: MCM 2023 - Sporting events - Ham Community 73 Jim

Andy, is this with the 891? I forget if that was your final choice. And, if it is, curious why you're sticking to QRP?

Excellent points MaryAnn. I love your idea of more women instructors and VEs. Of the two, instructors are really key. Well, here is a call on my part. Ham Community would welcome the addition of a woman instructor who would want to develop a course, with Ham Community. I would love a woman-led curriculum. And notice I say woman-led as opposed to exclusively for women. The reason for this is, as with many things, the need for male education. We need to educate our male friends to incite women to join the hobby not to, as you rightly say, placate them, but to join an exciting hobby. So I have a home challenge that could be a litmus test. My wife, simply put, is not interested. My approach has been to suggest the benefits for when we are RVing off grid starting in three years when she retires. To my credit, we have moved from a 'never' to a 'we'll see...' I would love to hear stories from either women or men who have either joined the hobby (the women) or those who have helped or simply experienced the journey taken by women joining (in this case the men's viewpoint). I'll conclude this post by saying that I look forward to the day where hearing a woman's voice on SSB - sorry MaryAnn 😁 - will not be a novelty but rather just another QSO.

I often wonder what antenna people would get given ideal circumstances. So imagine this scenario... Imagine you have: the best transceiver there is you have 1500 watts you have a wide open field with a perfect view of the horizon you have stable ground that will hold anything and you have unlimited access to the best feed lines and transformers and / or tuners. Given all this perfection... which antenna would you choose if you could choose only one? To make it a little more realistic, let's split it into two segments: one antenna for 20 & 40M bands another antenna for 80 & 160 M bands For each of these, what antenna would you get? Don't forget to answer the poll as well.